GREY DAYS, GOLDEN TOMATOES

 

While we were sipping a delightful cider granita with our friend Wade Bennett of Rockridge Orchards, at his stand in our neighborhood farmers’ market in West Seattle, we asked, “So, how are things at you orchards, Wade? This cider is delicious!”

 

Wade smiled in his customary placid way and replied, “Things are good, even if we have lost all our tomatoes and cucumbers this year to bad weather.”

 

Fortunately Wade has other local delights to offer. Still, there is nothing better than his midsummer Japanese kyuri style cucumbers. His mixed golden and red cherry tomatoes, though fantastic by themselves, make for a memorable panzanella salad or fresh tomato soup, or even fusion-style spring rolls with smoked salmon, dipped in Casina Rossa lemon oil and Acetorium fig vinegar.

 

And we have our Maida Golden tomato passata or puree, which has been a sunshine staple for us all winter.

 

During many a gray morning this past winter we would roast fennel seeds and Controne wild oregano in San Basilio extra virgin olive oil, rejoicing in the sunny suite of Mediterranean aromas while preparing for a chilly, foreshortened day in the Pacific Northwest. Simply reheating the oil and stirring in a half jar of Maida Golden tomato passata made an instantly-rich tomato broth, and dipping crusts of bread into the golden broth was as warming and satisfying as the Spring sun on an Italian beach.

 

 

Gazpacho Andaluz

 

Ingredients:

 

2lb ripe vine tomatoes or 1 jar of Maida golden tomato puree

1 Small cucumber

1 Green bell pepper or Poblano pepper

1 Garlic clove

1 Small white onion

1 Cup of bread cubes (with no crust) soaked in 2 cups of water

6 tbsp of San Basilio E.V.O.O.

3 tbsp of Acetorium Tomato Vinegar

Fresh basil or Mint for decoratation.

Casina Rossa Cervia Limited Edition Salt to taste

 

How to Prepare:

Chop all the vegetables in small cubes. Place the vegetables, the vinegar and the bread crumbs with the water in a small stockpot. With a hand or regulare blender reduce the ingredients to a sauce consistency. If the sauce is too thick add little more water. Add salt and San Basilio EVOO and mix few more seconds. Tip: place the stockpot in the freezer few minutes before using. This will ensure the puree to not overheat during the mixing.

 

Chill until ingredients are well-blended, Serve in small cups with a drizzle of more olive oil, tomato vinegar 

WISTFUL IN SEATTLE, OVER ASPARAGUS

 

With the coming of June the citizens of Washington State’s Emerald City are emerging from a long, gray winter. Our eyes sparkle as we happily salve our first sunburns of the year, buckle-up our Birkenstocks, and begin firing up our barbeques.

Well, not all eyes are sparkling. Fresh asparagus lovers are shedding a tear or two.

In Washington State, the end of May coincides with the disappearance of fresh asparagus from our farmers’ markets. Ten months of building anticipation– of that first asparagus-Sauvignon blanc pairing of the year, the delightful cream sauces, pasta dishes, and luscious pizzas that we made with this delicate yet rich “jumbo sprout”, those delicious grillings that we created, with no help other than from a dash of extra virgin and a dusting of sea salt–- suddenly gives way to another ten months of wistful waiting. 

We shrug. Ahh, it tastes so good– but it’s all so ethereal.

And yet, those asparageic memories will remain, fresh in mind…

 

ROOTS OF THE PASSION FOR ASPARAGUS: THE SPARGELFEST 

These joyous memories date back over a decade, back to when our appreciation of asparagus was suddenly deepened.

We had been taking the “long way” to visit our friend and gifted RITROVO® producer, Josef Reiterer, located in the Dolomite mountain village of Molten/Meltina (German and Italian referents; the bilingual residents’ principal language is German in the northern, politically independent region of Alto Adige). We had been taking our time getting to Molten, turning up from the Adige river valley whenever we could, following vineyard-flanked “wine roads” that climbed to the stupendous medieval castles towering over it. Our mission was simple: see as many castles and taste as many of the region’s vaunted white wines as we could, on the wat to Molten.

It was gorgeous mission. Each castle had its own charm and historical significance, and every approach was a trekker’s dream-come-true: a good workout which invariably rewarded us with a gasthaus of some sort, serving delicious fare and plenty of good wine. Perfect.

We were already enchanted by the region when we reached Terlan/Terlano, from where the step ascent to Josef’s village of Molten would begin.

But there, in the central square, we came face-to-stalk with a two stories’-tall, inflated white asparagus, symbol of Spargelfest. 

Spargelfest, Terlan’s festival of the white asparagus, has honored this pale yet plump, luscious spear for generations, in part due to its organoleptic qualities but also to its symbolic ushering-in of …

Spring.

It greeted us upon our arrival, then offered itself up to us numerous manifestations, everywhere we went. Everywhere– Every eating establishment in Terlan seemed to have its own, specialized, absolutely delicious, spargel-based dish. It was almost surreal at first, but soon it became  a gastronomic odyssey. Everything came up asparagus! We delayed our departure for Molten for a day, in the mean time sampling our way through Terlan (after obligatory photos of us, each taking our turn standing next to the giant white asparagus) and delicious marvels served there, all starring the village’s Springtime pride-and-joy.

Later, upon our arrival in Molten, Josef Reiterer continued the festivities, taking us to a rustic gasthaus/osteria where we were served more variations on the same theme. He treated us to a memorable, springtime plate of the region: thickly-trunked green asparagus, carefully steamed al dente and generously buttered (butter being the preference over extra virgin in the north of Italy) then capped with hand-carved, mountain-raised speck.

And it wasn’t over yet. The next day, further northward in Bolzano, we were treated to fine, asparagus cuisine at its best, back to eating white asparagus but this time freshly cut and gently scalded, then uniquely-sauced according to a special, regionally unique recipe (below), Salsa Bolzanina. Though Josef had warned us that the Salsa Bolzanina would be ‘heavy’, its rich, egginess punctuated with shaved horseradish was remarkable– especially when paired with Traminer Aromatico, from nearby Andrian/ Andriano (see www.weinstrasse.com).

Asparagus as we had known it would never be the same.

Nevertheless, memories are to be made, too, aren’t they? Mmm…

Ci ritroviamo,

Ilyse and Ron Post

RITROVO®

L’amore for Italian Cheese and Condiments

Part of our professional sommelier studies in Italy was the study of food. For millennia wine itself has been considered a basic element of the Mediterranean diet—“liquid food”, so to speak—describable in terms of nutritive quality, flavor characteristics, regional diversity, and intrinsic balance. The next step was simply to study other foods, starting with cheese, a natural companion to wine.

What a delightful step it was. In exploring the world of cheese we learned that not only is it one of humankind’s most important foods, but its worldwide inventory is also is testament to how humans have converted environmental adaptation into an edible art. Italy itself boasts about 400 different, known cheeses, each cheese communicating distinct senses of place, culture, and pairing with other foods.

As Italian regional food researchers as well as cheese lovers in general, we became interested in cheese condiments. Condiments are the complimentary elements of a dish or meal that bring its primary flavors into harmony and balance. Especially in the case of aged cheeses, condiments are fundamental to extolling the cheese’s particular characteristics. We first studied Italian cheeses and condiments in Rome, nearly fifteen years ago, during a Slow Food course on wine-condiment-cheese combinations.

Burrata: gentle yet unforgettable

We began the evening with our first slice of Burrata (for more information on Burrata see previous posting), part of an unforgettable wine-condiment-cheese combination. By nature Burrata is rich yet inititially-subtle, and its patrimony of flavors and aromas could have been easily overpowered; however, it was paired with a moderately-chilled glass of Locorotondo, itself of medium body and acidity. The “condimental bridge” for this pairing was a drizzling of mildly-peppery, mid-early harvest extra virgin olive oil from the Castel del Monte zone near Bari. The effect: extraordinary! With a last, palate-freshening sip of Locorotondo, the students at our table simply exchanged silent, smiling nods as we shared this treasure from Italy’s mezzogiorno.

Puzzone di Moena: strong aromas, generous flavors

Later in the evening the course made a strong step forward. We tasted “the big stink”, translation for the term Puzzone. Puzzone too, is derived from cow’s milk, though its powerful aromas owe to high altitude grazing in Dolomite mountain range malghe (pastures) or grazing stations, these particulary malghe located in the regions of Trentino and Alto-Adige. We tasted (and smelled) Puzzone, noting that it would need a stronger counterbalancing act. Its strong aromas and herbaceousness were complimented by a lovely Trentino Lagrein and a northern Italian chestnut honey.

Bruss: not for the faint-of-palate

Moving up a few notches in strength and piquancy we tasted Bruss, one of Italy’s rarest and strongest cheeses (which we later imported). Though Piemonte is known both for its aged wines and cheeses, bruss is truly unique, Bruss is historically formed from a conglomeration of odds and ends of other Piemontese cheeses, accented by the mixing-in of left-over grappa then left to age several months in small, terra cotta pots. Nearly 15 years (and as many washings) later, the empty Bruss pot that we had taken home still retains some of its sharp, liquory aromas. A seemingly difficult combination was achieved through a robust pairing with a fine Barbera, after we had dipped the Bruss on typical grissini breadsticks (much like the ones we now import from Tenuta Castello). A cugna, red wine chutney just like the Il Mongetto mostarda d’uva that we import today, cleansed our fragrant palates.

Chef Balin and his aged cheese-and-condiment cart

Not long after our introduction to the study and appreciation of Italian cheeses and condiments we went with one of our Piedmontese producers to Da Balin, a restaurant in the village of Vercelli in the Po river delta which is both the largest rice-agriculture zone in Europe and neighbor to the wine production zone of Monferrato.

Chef Balin a consultant risotto chef for for Tenuta Castello, our award-winning, organic and hand-weeded risotto rice producer, had just served an incredible meal for his incredibly-late American guests. We settled back, stuffed-to-capacity with course-after-course of an expertly-prepared meal.

Not another bite. Nope.

And yet…

We heard the screeching echo of little wheels on their rolling approach through Chef Balin’s Kitchen.

Then we saw it: Chef Balin returned, wheeling out a gurney-sized, dessert-style cart laden with layer cake-like slices of aged, pungent favorites such as Gorgonzola, Castelmagno, Taleggio… by the time the cart arrived at our table the cavernous dining room around us had already been re-populated—this time crowded with the aromas of seasoned cheeses.

Flanking the cheeses were two more files. Lined-up were cheese condiment containers of various colors and sizes: an array of fruit-based vinegars including a tiny, bulbous bottle of 100 year-aged Balsamic; variations on Mostarda d’Uva, the region’s slow-cooked, tar-like equivalent of Piedmontese chutney with a base of Barbera red wine; honeys of different colors and consistencies.

Suddenly, our appetites returned.

Ci ritroviamo (we’ll get together again).

Ilyse and Ron

RITROVO

Cheese Pairings in honor of Seattle Cheese Festival

Here are some cheese-cheese condiment pairings from some of

Ritrovo cheese friends, all in honor of this weekend’s Seattle Cheese Festival.

Read more also at today’s Seattle Post-Intelligencer food section

CHEESE CONDIMENT	CHEESE	FRIEND
Pecatti di Ciacco Mint flower honey	Aged pecorino	Foster & Dobbs, Portland, Oregon
Dr. Pescia sulla honey	Roquefort	Foster & Dobbs
Dr. Pescia blackberry honey	Zamorano from Spain	Enoteca Vespaio, Austin, TX
Dr. Pescia heather honey	Ossau-Iraty from Pyrenees	Enoteca Vespaio, Austin, TX
Casina Rossa Abruzzo Piccante	Fontina cheese and scrambled eggs	St. Killian’s Cheese Shop, Denver
Peccati di Ciacco Grilled Fennel	Pizza bianca with prosciutto	St. Killian’s Cheese Shop, Denver
Radici of Tuscany White Beans	Over arugula with pecorino romano	St. Killian’s Cheese Shop, Denver
Peccati di Ciacco Truffle Honey	Robiola Due Latti	Cheese Shop of Healdsburg, CA
La Bottega di Chiassaia Panforte	Layered with sliced Taleggio cheese	Tulio Ristorante, Seattle
Casina Rossa Saffron & Honey	Aged pecorino cheese	DeLaurenti Specialty Food & Wine, Seattle
Radici of Tuscany Chestnut-Orange	Delice de Bourgogne	Shannon Thorne, Ballinger Thriftway
Radici Quince Jam and San Basilio	La Perel from Spain	Shannon Thorne, Ballinger Thriftway
raw Sicilian almonds
Il Mongetto Mostarda d’Uva	Beecher’s Flagship cheddar	Thirst Wine Bar, Portland, OR
Casina Rossa Mosto Cotto	Estrella Chevrette	Stumbling Goat, Seattle

RITROVO: a joyous “refinding” of others at the dining table

Long before RITROVO became the name of our company and web site in the United States, it was the name of a special kind of place for us in Italy.

During our six years of living and traveling throughout rural Italy we saw the sign “Il Ritrovo” again and again. In asking a local friend about this recurrence he replied that a “ritrovo” is simply a place where one gets together with friends and enjoys simple, mostly local, food and drink. Though this term seems to refer to what we call a “wine bar” in the U.S., it has a different emphasis. The importance of a “Ritrovo” is to host a get-together (lit. a “finding again”) in a comforting place, where people can renew their social bonds.

In fact, we decided upon our company name at such a place. We were seated on the porch of a rustic, white-curtained “Ritrovo” at Felluga winery, located near the Friulian village of Gradisca di Isonzo, “getting together” with our friend Gaspare and sipping local Tocai and Cabernet Franc wines. These wines were served with paper-thin San Daniele prosciutto and cubes of Montasio cheese, followed by roasted and tender Stinco, a delicious cut of meat (from the shin, in fact). The three of us passed the hours of an overcast afternoon laughing and chatting; some time during that magical afternoon we came upon the idea of using RITROVO for the company we were going to start in the U.S. Ritrovo, in its many word forms (as explained at www.ritrovo.com) was not only a pleasing concept for Italians in general but also an excellent idea for our values-driven company.

Now, ten years after that magical afternoon, we welcome you to RITROVO. We look forward to getting together with you again — at our blog or web site, or at your table as you together enjoy the artisan, regionally-based Italian products that we develop and bring directly to the U.S.

Ci ritroviamo (we’ll get together again),

Ron & Ilyse

Burrata and the Seattle Cheese Festival

In over fifteen years of exploring Italy’s hinterlands, back roads, and mountain trails we are continuously amazed by its vast diversity of food and drink. To date, upwards of 1,500 different wines can be found in the Italian market (one in five Italians makes his/her own wine), each one of them conceived as part of a regionally significant, flavor-balanced combination of wine and food.

The most common basic accompaniment to Italian wines are its cheeses. From the high mountain pastures of Alto Adige to the southeaster tip of Sicily, we have found delicious local cheeses, each one with its own story. As an example, in June 2007 we had the opportunity to visit the Caseificio Olanda in Puglia, a renowned artisan maker of burrata, a fresh, pliable, cow’s milk cheese similar at first glance to fresh mozzarella. Though burrata (“buttery”) is a regional specialty in southeastern Puglia, Caseificio Olanda now uses optimum quality, fresh cow’s milk trucked in every morning from mountain pastures in the north. Upon arrival at the caseficio the milk is heated, then it is formed into curds. The curds are fashioned into large, pearly sheets, then, at this point, artisan magic occurs: The pearly sheets are sliced into pliable sections, immersed in basins of whey, then masterfully transformed into small, open-ended “cheese pouches,” each pouch containing a drop of fresh milk in its center and a knob-like tag of fresh cheese at its top. The tags are used to tie up these pouches, sealing in their creamy centers and giving the burrata a creamy finish from its absorption of the fresh milk.

These cheeses are like soft versions of Carrara marble—ivory-white, yet as silky and smooth as the velvety milk from which they are made. Suggestion: Cut open a burrata over some fresh greens and drizzle with some peppery extra virgin olive oil. This is simple, regional Italian food that exalts the rich flavors of its pure, raw materials. Or do as Chef Walter Pisano of Tulio Ristorante in Seattle does and elaborate a bit by arranging some fresh heirloom tomato slices beside the burrata, and sprinkling with basil-infused salt.

Join Ritrovo in its exaltation of simple regional Italian food at the Seattle Cheese Festival where we will feature fresh (American) burrata with condiments such as:

• Tenuta Cocevola DOP Terra di Bari Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Taralli Crackers
• Michele Ferrante Controne Hot Pepper
• Mastri di San Basilio Organic Sicilian oregano
• Casina Rossa “& Salts” including the debut of “Fiori & Salt”

Nettles

One of the great joys of living in Italy is enjoying its multitude of open-air markets. At a glance, these canvas bazaars for agriculturally-based regional commerce are not unlike our own farmers markets in Seattle. Notwithstanding, there is a particular unfolding here in Italy’s central village squares and inner city neighborhoods that lends to their markets an orchestral quality.

The pre-dawn quiet is broken by the faint beginnings of today’s commercial crescendo, as muffler-less vans begin converging on the market site. The market begins to form as these decrepit vehicles arrive from the surrounding country side, each laden with that morning’s offerings of produce or cut-rate domestic offerings but all carrying, piggy-back style, the familiar swaddling of poles, canvas, and rope atop that will be unstrapped and staked unto temporary places of business.

The vendors spill out of their vans and the crescendo increases. They are long-familiar, serenading one another with song, familiar greetings and lively banter as they knit their canvas commercial patchwork together. The tune tightens as the morning’s preparation continues, as the vendors intently arrange their merchandise and stack their crates. Dozens of tiny espresso spoons tink-tink-tinkle in unison in their respective cups, as the vendors stir sugar into steaming espressos hustled out from their preferred barriste just as the first customers begin to arrive.

The earthy intermingling of fresh espresso and freshly arranged vegetables signal the beginning of the market’s  activity. It will quickly become a full-blown cacophony by mid-morning, a boisterous din of vendors hawking their wares, each periodically soloing-out a call-to-action, for shoppers to come over to where the greens are freshest, the fruit is ripest, the selection is best

Yet by 11:30 the decrescendo begins. Mothers and grandmothers disappear, one-by-one, with bags and two-wheeled carts stuffed with the day’s cooking. The whisper of street sweepers’ brooms signals an end to today’s open air market; by the the time the first waves of mid-lunch heat begin to beat down on the market place all trace of its morning’s activity will have been re-crated, reloaded, and driven away.

In these hustling hubs of instant commercial activity each vendor has his or her own offerings and style of attracting customers. In our particular market, in Piazza Alberone in Rome, growers or vendors would call out about their regional specialties: the sliced meat man from Norcia with his prosciutto dolce and jars of olives and plastic tubs of fresh ricotta, the tiny yellow apple lady from Palestrina whose fresh eggs were sold wrapped like china cups in layers of newspaper, a wizened old gentleman with the tough microgreens called “misticanza,” ten types to a scoop—a botanical garden for the plate. Going to this market and picking the most appetizing offerings of the season became a life ritual, a daily foraging tied to the seasons and the search for inspiration for that day’s meal.

Back home in Seattle in my local farmers market, I become grounded every season by its spring opening. Last week, for instance, inspired by a bed of nettles cream served under a seasonal slab of halibut at Beato Restaurant, I dashed to the West Seattle farmers market to seek out my own bag of fresh, gnarly nettles to blanch and cook. Nettles are an almost laughable local vegetable, a food that shows that people were once so poor and hungry that they foraged in fallow lands near their habitations, found this stinging plant, and turned it into something edible. We had eaten nettles for the very first time in a creamy pesto at our country trattoria Da Mimmo in Rome and now here we were eating them in season again here at the refined Beato. Weedy nettles, then, are a local food, born of a poor person’s cuisine in at least two of our favorite local cultures.

And these stinging nettles, once boiled in salting water and drained, offer anything but an impoverished flavor. They are like an aged spinach, deep and earthy, with the aroma of a fine dry green tea. Naturally my Italian palate moved me to blend them into a hearty green pesto, which I used to fill pita pockets and spooned over hot La Romagna umbricelli pasta. Try them sautéed under local fresh haibut, or end-of-winter Washington potatoes, colcannon style.

RECIPE

Nettles Pesto Italian Style
Ingredients:

¼ pound fresh nettles leaves
½ cup Tenuta Cocevola Extra Virgin Olive Oil
¼ cup Radici of Tuscany Organic Wild Pinenuts
1 tsp. Casina Rossa Sweet & Salt
¼ cup finely grated parmigiano reggiano cheese
Casina Rossa Limited Edition Salt

Bring a pot of water to boil. Add some Casina Rossa Limited Edition Salt. Place the nettle leaves directly from your container into the pot of boiling water taking care not to touch them with any bare skin. Allow to boil for about ten minutes, until well cooked. Drain and rinse for several minutes under cold water. Squeeze several times to allow all water to be removed. Cool completely.

In a food processor place the pinenuts, salt, cheese and olive oil. Pulse for a few seconds to chop coarsely.

Coarsely chop the cooked and cooled nettles leaves. Process for a minute or so with the other ingredients until a smooth cream is obtained. If mixture is too thick, add more extra virgin olive oil.

Serve over La Romagna plain Stringozzi, La Bella Angiolina trofie pasta, or olive leaf pasta.